May 6th 2011 .. I leave for Italy .. 12 days .. 1 travel buddy .. 1 light suitcase .. and a million curiosities. I write this entry as much of a travel guide as it is a simple narration of my experiences.
New York - Rome - Venice (1 day) - Florence (4 days) - Rome (5 days) - New York.
Delta has been good so far - I was able to secure a window seat at check-in time - Yay! It didn't take me long to realize that my 31J lap of luxury would mean I could not get up from my seat if the guy in front was leaning back all the way. Are they just testing us by making the seats closer and closer? They seem to be in direct conflict with the apparel companies that keep bringing their sizes down so Americans will not notice as they get bigger and bigger!
Then came the best part of the flight - the meal. I was particularly blown away by the food offered by Delta ... er in the other direction ... thought I had gone to hell and back for having sinned from eating that food. The only thing that I did eat on that tray (without gulping it down to keep from tasting it) were the 7 pieces of iceberg lettuce ... because they reminded me that I was still human!
My first stop is Rome. I meet my friend on the airport effortlessly thanks to roaming cell phone technology. We don't understand the language ... we don't have a phone ... we don't have local currency ... we are supposed to meet a friend for lunch in the city ... and none of the pay phones on the train station work. The chosen man in the hour of need? The uniformed cop who does not speak a word of English. After convincing him with smiles and actions that I need to use his cell phone, he hands it over to me and looks suspiciously as I punch in the digits. Wow - people are friendly here. I don't get through and as I try the digits several times he looks at me and says "No Terrorist". Wow - people are in your face here ... just like India because nobody in the US would ever say that to you (even if they thought it in their head). Anyway everything works out and we are on our way ... we meet a friend for lunch in Campo de Fiori - lots of local little restaurants and open markets. We make our way to Rome Termini - tickets have been bought in advance - next stop Venice.
We booked all our stays through http://www.airbnb.com/ and had the BEST experience in all three cities. We had decided before the trip not to stay in hotels - we wanted to get a feel of living in these cities and experience living in local residential neighborhoods which is exactly what we got... not to mention all our apartments were half the price of what we would've paid for hotel rooms.
Our train to Venice is at 4.45 pm and we reach Rome Termini at 4.35 pm. What would you do if you had 10 mins and didn't check where the platform was ? Cappuccino of course!! Because those cappuccinos were soon to become an addiction and the highlight of the rest of our trip. The one thing you realize very soon in Italy is it's unlike America in every possible way it can be. Which means everything is freshly prepared ... everything actually tastes great and natural with very little preservatives ... and to-go cups are grossly frowned upon. So cappuccino is served on the counter and you drink it then and there. I don't think I need to say that we ended up missing our train by 1 minute ... then found out the hard way that you cannot re-use train tickets and there are no refunds. We have to buy new tickets for the next train. That's the most expensive cup of cappuccino I've ever had - total - 75 Euros! Brilliant start to the Europe trip!
I do recommend train travel in Italy - it's very well connected and there are lots of options for trains - but there is no need to buy your tickets in advance. It is easy enough to get to the station and then buy your tickets. In case you need to buy tickets in advance http://www.trenitalia.com/
We finally get to Venice an hour later than planned. We were recommended this Bed and Breakfast by a friend - http://www.airbnb.com/rooms/72044. We did not stay on Venice island - we stayed on the mainland very close to Mestre station and saved pots of money by doing that. Maurizio who runs Sweet Venice was absolutely the best host and Sweet Venice is like living in someone's home - warm, immaculately clean and thoughtfully designed - complete pleasure to stay in. Getting into Venice was only 10 mins by bus.
Venice is STUNNING - it really is but I don't think you need more then one full day (and lots of walking energy of course). We spent about 12 hours starting 10 am - walked all over the Island - saw lots of beautiful churches and chapels - avoided all museums (you have Florence and Rome to get completely museumed out!) - avoided touristy spots for lunch and grabbed a quick sandwich and pizza ... did not take a Gondola ride ... chose instead to ride the canal multiple times on the ferry ... and evening walked into a random restaurant and asked the Italian bartender to recommend a small local restaurant and had amazing dinner there - unfortunately I don't remember the name but it was very close to Fondamenta della Sensa. And oh - cappuccino break every 3 hours through the day - its a MUST!
Next stop Florence - magical beautiful surreal! Our apartment was in the best neighborhood possible - very close to Piazza Della Signoria - http://www.airbnb.com/rooms/75806 - the hosts were great - they were waiting for us when we reached - helped us with our bags - gave us maps and restaurant recommendations - gave us wireless access - and came back the last day to to check us out.
We spent 4 days in Florence of which we did a day trip to Tuscany and a half day trip to Siena - I wish we had more than 2 1/2 days in Florence but its a small city and we did manage to cover a lot in that time. I recommend keeping your day heavy in the morning - having a light sandwich and glass of wine for lunch - so you still feel energetic until about 4.00 pm and then keeping it light after a much deserved coffee break.
Absolute Must-Do's in Florence -
We took a day tour to Tuscany with a local tour company - http://funintuscany.com/ - Our tour included pick-up and drop off in Florence - vespa riding through the Tuscan countryside - cooking class on a beautiful farm - lunch and wine tasting - and a stop at Piazzale Michelango. It was totally worth it and Nicolo who owns and runs the tours was absolutely the most adorable guide!
Restaurants in Florence -
Next Stop - Roma...
I think the first thing that comes to mind when you enter the city of Rome is Grandeur and the second thing is How the hell did they do it? Practically everything about Rome is unbelievably grand. I was literally speechless when I walked into the Pantheon! We also visited the Cornell campus in Rome as I had a friend who was studying there for a semester and it is this massive old palazzo with 60 something foot doors and stone walls - you walk inside and you are instantly transported back in time - take a look - http://aap.cornell.edu/rome/facilities.cfm
We spent 5 whole days in Rome and needed every minute of everyday and we were walking around at least 10 hours a day. I was like a sponge absorbing the sights and sounds to the point that I had no time to shop neither did I feel the need to shop. So if you would like an extra day to chill and shop and hang out - I would suggest 6 days in Rome. That said the minimum days I would recommend is 3 - if you have less than 3 days then don't bother coming here - it will be a complete insult to this magnificent mystical being that is Rome!
Absolute must-do's in Rome -
We also took a day trip to the island of Capri - it is about a 14 hour day but easily done as a day trip. We looked at several tour companies that offered the trip for about $200 but chose to be adventurous and do it on our own. We took an early morning train from Rome Termini to Naples - then a cab to the ferry terminal - then a 1 hour ferry to the island. We had called ahead and rented a private boat for 2 hours which turned out to be a brilliant idea and totally worth it. The guy (who and the most uncanny resemblance to Gene Hackman and Dustin Hoffman fused into one) took us all around the island - and to the Blue Grotto - which is tiny and sort of a rip-off (for 12 Euros) because it takes precisely 2 minutes to go in and come out of the cave - but yet I wouldn't want to be the person that went there all the way and doesn't know what the blue cave looks like from inside - it's quite magnificent! Make sure you do not eat any meals on the main level of the island - it's all touristy - take the cable car up to where all the fancy boutiques and cafes are and there are a bunch of great restaurants with amazing views. Capri was definitely a highlight - away from the hustle and bustle of Rome - away from walking all day day with a purpose - it was calming blue waters and a day filled with peace and relaxation so I loved it!
Shopping - Unfortunately my entire trip was packed with sights and bites and conversations with great people we met along the way so I had absolutely no time to shop. What I did manage to buy is a whole bunch of paintings from a local artist in Florence - his name is Xhovalin Delia and he has a small shop near Piazza del Signoria - I fell in love with his work and it now adorns the walls in my New York apartment - I highly recommend you drop in if you are ever in Florence. Take a look - http://www.xhovalindelia.it/
I will miss you Magica Italia - amazing people - fabulous food - great wine - mind-blowing architecture - heart-warming culture - and most of all - Art to-die-for!
New York - Rome - Venice (1 day) - Florence (4 days) - Rome (5 days) - New York.
Delta has been good so far - I was able to secure a window seat at check-in time - Yay! It didn't take me long to realize that my 31J lap of luxury would mean I could not get up from my seat if the guy in front was leaning back all the way. Are they just testing us by making the seats closer and closer? They seem to be in direct conflict with the apparel companies that keep bringing their sizes down so Americans will not notice as they get bigger and bigger!
Then came the best part of the flight - the meal. I was particularly blown away by the food offered by Delta ... er in the other direction ... thought I had gone to hell and back for having sinned from eating that food. The only thing that I did eat on that tray (without gulping it down to keep from tasting it) were the 7 pieces of iceberg lettuce ... because they reminded me that I was still human!
My first stop is Rome. I meet my friend on the airport effortlessly thanks to roaming cell phone technology. We don't understand the language ... we don't have a phone ... we don't have local currency ... we are supposed to meet a friend for lunch in the city ... and none of the pay phones on the train station work. The chosen man in the hour of need? The uniformed cop who does not speak a word of English. After convincing him with smiles and actions that I need to use his cell phone, he hands it over to me and looks suspiciously as I punch in the digits. Wow - people are friendly here. I don't get through and as I try the digits several times he looks at me and says "No Terrorist". Wow - people are in your face here ... just like India because nobody in the US would ever say that to you (even if they thought it in their head). Anyway everything works out and we are on our way ... we meet a friend for lunch in Campo de Fiori - lots of local little restaurants and open markets. We make our way to Rome Termini - tickets have been bought in advance - next stop Venice.
We booked all our stays through http://www.airbnb.com/ and had the BEST experience in all three cities. We had decided before the trip not to stay in hotels - we wanted to get a feel of living in these cities and experience living in local residential neighborhoods which is exactly what we got... not to mention all our apartments were half the price of what we would've paid for hotel rooms.
Our train to Venice is at 4.45 pm and we reach Rome Termini at 4.35 pm. What would you do if you had 10 mins and didn't check where the platform was ? Cappuccino of course!! Because those cappuccinos were soon to become an addiction and the highlight of the rest of our trip. The one thing you realize very soon in Italy is it's unlike America in every possible way it can be. Which means everything is freshly prepared ... everything actually tastes great and natural with very little preservatives ... and to-go cups are grossly frowned upon. So cappuccino is served on the counter and you drink it then and there. I don't think I need to say that we ended up missing our train by 1 minute ... then found out the hard way that you cannot re-use train tickets and there are no refunds. We have to buy new tickets for the next train. That's the most expensive cup of cappuccino I've ever had - total - 75 Euros! Brilliant start to the Europe trip!
I do recommend train travel in Italy - it's very well connected and there are lots of options for trains - but there is no need to buy your tickets in advance. It is easy enough to get to the station and then buy your tickets. In case you need to buy tickets in advance http://www.trenitalia.com/
We finally get to Venice an hour later than planned. We were recommended this Bed and Breakfast by a friend - http://www.airbnb.com/rooms/72044. We did not stay on Venice island - we stayed on the mainland very close to Mestre station and saved pots of money by doing that. Maurizio who runs Sweet Venice was absolutely the best host and Sweet Venice is like living in someone's home - warm, immaculately clean and thoughtfully designed - complete pleasure to stay in. Getting into Venice was only 10 mins by bus.
Venice is STUNNING - it really is but I don't think you need more then one full day (and lots of walking energy of course). We spent about 12 hours starting 10 am - walked all over the Island - saw lots of beautiful churches and chapels - avoided all museums (you have Florence and Rome to get completely museumed out!) - avoided touristy spots for lunch and grabbed a quick sandwich and pizza ... did not take a Gondola ride ... chose instead to ride the canal multiple times on the ferry ... and evening walked into a random restaurant and asked the Italian bartender to recommend a small local restaurant and had amazing dinner there - unfortunately I don't remember the name but it was very close to Fondamenta della Sensa. And oh - cappuccino break every 3 hours through the day - its a MUST!
Next stop Florence - magical beautiful surreal! Our apartment was in the best neighborhood possible - very close to Piazza Della Signoria - http://www.airbnb.com/rooms/75806 - the hosts were great - they were waiting for us when we reached - helped us with our bags - gave us maps and restaurant recommendations - gave us wireless access - and came back the last day to to check us out.We spent 4 days in Florence of which we did a day trip to Tuscany and a half day trip to Siena - I wish we had more than 2 1/2 days in Florence but its a small city and we did manage to cover a lot in that time. I recommend keeping your day heavy in the morning - having a light sandwich and glass of wine for lunch - so you still feel energetic until about 4.00 pm and then keeping it light after a much deserved coffee break.
Absolute Must-Do's in Florence -
- The statue of David at Galleria dell'Accademia - HE is the most beautiful man I've ever seen and despite what anyone may tell you - I would not go to Florence and be satiated with his replicas all over - so do yourself a favor - without fail buy your tickets weeks in advance (otherwise you will spend hours in line) - http://www.b-ticket.com/b%
2Dticket/uffizi/ - and go see the real thing! - Duomo and going up the 462 steps to the top - whichever day you decide to do this - do it FIRST thing in the morning - you will not have the inclination to climb all those steps if you've already walked a lot.
- Santa Croce Basilica - This has the graves of Galileo, Machiavelli, Rossini and Michelangelo - it has the most fascinating funeral monuments that I saw in my whole trip. I highly recommend taking the audio tour here.
- Uffizi Gallery - The Uffizi gallery has the most comprehensive art works of all - it is fascinating but also huge and you can get lost in a sea of paintings so if you are short on time or not a huge art enthusiast - I would skip it. Certainly do it if you have time - again - without fail - buy the tickets weeks in advance.
- Medici Chapels - Beautiful fascinating art pieces and paintings - buy tickets in advance - http://www.firenzemusei.it/index.html. i recommend the audio tour here.
- Take a walk on the Ponte Vecchio towards evening.
- The Leather Market (near Mercato Centrale) is overrated if you are coming from a place like New York - cookie-cutter designs of bags and shoes that I would never buy - but I did find GREAT leather stuff - bag, boots and wallet in random small leather shops in Florence - YES it is MUCH cheaper than the US for the quality of leather you get - my bag is like butter :)
- Make sure to have an early dinner one night and walk to Piazza Della Signoria and come right outside the Uffizi Gallery - there is a musician by the name of Ken Mercer who plays outside the Uffizi Gallery every day from 9.30 pm to about 11.30 pm - he sings everything from Paul Simon to U2 to Led Zeppelin to Cold Play and he is unbelievable - I caught him on my last night in Florence and it was my most memorable night in Italy.
We took a day tour to Tuscany with a local tour company - http://funintuscany.com/ - Our tour included pick-up and drop off in Florence - vespa riding through the Tuscan countryside - cooking class on a beautiful farm - lunch and wine tasting - and a stop at Piazzale Michelango. It was totally worth it and Nicolo who owns and runs the tours was absolutely the most adorable guide! Restaurants in Florence -
- Natalino Enoteca Panini on Borgo degli Albizi, 17 (not the restaurant but the sandwich and wine shop across the street from it) - they have awesome panini sandwiches for very cheap and its a great quick lunch (hopefully you eat all meats but my fav was the spicy salami) - they have great wines as well.
- Filipepe for dinner - address is Via San Niccolo 39R - it was hands down the BEST dinner in Florence. http://www.filipepe.com/
- Il Santo Bevitore for dinner - http://www.ilsantobevitore.com/home.htm - fantastic ambience - great food.
- Don't forget to have cappuccino multiple times a day and gelato more often than you would dream of having (my favorite was dark chocolate and you have to hunt a bit to get that flavor)
- If you will dare then try the Tripe sandwich - you will see Tripe street stalls in the leather market - Yes it's cow's intestines but they serve it steaming hot with a really spicy sauce and it tastes YUM!
Next Stop - Roma...
I think the first thing that comes to mind when you enter the city of Rome is Grandeur and the second thing is How the hell did they do it? Practically everything about Rome is unbelievably grand. I was literally speechless when I walked into the Pantheon! We also visited the Cornell campus in Rome as I had a friend who was studying there for a semester and it is this massive old palazzo with 60 something foot doors and stone walls - you walk inside and you are instantly transported back in time - take a look - http://aap.cornell.edu/rome/facilities.cfm
We spent 5 whole days in Rome and needed every minute of everyday and we were walking around at least 10 hours a day. I was like a sponge absorbing the sights and sounds to the point that I had no time to shop neither did I feel the need to shop. So if you would like an extra day to chill and shop and hang out - I would suggest 6 days in Rome. That said the minimum days I would recommend is 3 - if you have less than 3 days then don't bother coming here - it will be a complete insult to this magnificent mystical being that is Rome!Absolute must-do's in Rome -
- Santa Maria del Popolo, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain - You can start at Santa Maria Popolo and you can walk all the way down to Trevi fountain passing the Spanish Steps on the way.
- Colosseum -(I would skip Roman Forums and Palatine Hills - not much to see - mostly ruins)
- Vatican - DEFINITELY take the guided tour - book it in advance on the official vatican website - the one I took was Vatican Museums and Saint Peter's Basilica (duration of the tour is 3 hours) and it was fantastic. When you climb up the dome of St. Peters Basilica (which you MUST do - you can take the elevator to make it easier), on your way down before you descend - there is a shop that sells memorabilia. You can mail postcards right from top of the dome.
- Pantheon - Magnificent and Awe-Inspiring.
- Galleria Borghese - If there was one museum I would go to in Rome then its this one ... absolutely and completely I was floored by the art and sculptures so HIGHLY recommended it - again without fail buy the tickets in advance - they get sold out soon - http://www.galleriaborghese.
it/info-en.htm - and ya DEFINITELY take the audio tour here.
- Babette - My absolute favorite restaurant in Rome - There have a lunch buffet from Tue to Thurs for 12 Euros - totally worth it - it's very close to Santa Maria del Popolo so I would do it on the same day. It is also fabulous for dinner - if you go - make a reservation (they do speak English) and ask for an outdoor table in the courtyard.
- La Vinoteca Di Mimi' E Coco - Great wine place in Campo dei Fiori - Address - Via del Governo Vecchio, 89, 00186 Roma, Italy
- There are lots of bars and great local joints in the Largo Argentina area where we spent several evenings with friends.
- If you venture into Trastevere we found the most amazing little pizza joint that sold pizza by the pound and had the best pizza I've had - it was called La Boccaccia - http://www.romeluv.com/blog/185-la-boccaccia - if you have one free afternoon you must go to Trastevere just to have the pizza.
We also took a day trip to the island of Capri - it is about a 14 hour day but easily done as a day trip. We looked at several tour companies that offered the trip for about $200 but chose to be adventurous and do it on our own. We took an early morning train from Rome Termini to Naples - then a cab to the ferry terminal - then a 1 hour ferry to the island. We had called ahead and rented a private boat for 2 hours which turned out to be a brilliant idea and totally worth it. The guy (who and the most uncanny resemblance to Gene Hackman and Dustin Hoffman fused into one) took us all around the island - and to the Blue Grotto - which is tiny and sort of a rip-off (for 12 Euros) because it takes precisely 2 minutes to go in and come out of the cave - but yet I wouldn't want to be the person that went there all the way and doesn't know what the blue cave looks like from inside - it's quite magnificent! Make sure you do not eat any meals on the main level of the island - it's all touristy - take the cable car up to where all the fancy boutiques and cafes are and there are a bunch of great restaurants with amazing views. Capri was definitely a highlight - away from the hustle and bustle of Rome - away from walking all day day with a purpose - it was calming blue waters and a day filled with peace and relaxation so I loved it!Shopping - Unfortunately my entire trip was packed with sights and bites and conversations with great people we met along the way so I had absolutely no time to shop. What I did manage to buy is a whole bunch of paintings from a local artist in Florence - his name is Xhovalin Delia and he has a small shop near Piazza del Signoria - I fell in love with his work and it now adorns the walls in my New York apartment - I highly recommend you drop in if you are ever in Florence. Take a look - http://www.xhovalindelia.it/
I will miss you Magica Italia - amazing people - fabulous food - great wine - mind-blowing architecture - heart-warming culture - and most of all - Art to-die-for!
1 comment:
Place are very much scenery.People love to visit this place.
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